Chapter 3: The Woman Who Knew Her Mother
Nia barely slept.
Every time she closed her eyes, she heard Margaret Bell's warning.
Your competition dress may be the least of your problems.
At six in the morning, she sat at her sewing table with a cup of instant coffee and her mother's letter spread beside the phoenix sketch.
She called Margaret again.
This time, the woman answered immediately.
"Good morning, Nia.""
"Please tell me what you meant last night.""
Margaret was silent for a moment.
"Your mother and I were friends long before either of us had a business. We studied design together. We shared a tiny studio in Manhattan and survived on cheap coffee and whatever we could afford to eat.""
Nia smiled faintly.
"That sounds like something she would do.""
"She was brilliant," Margaret continued.
"And she had a gift for seeing beauty in things everyone else dismissed.""
Nia glanced at the blue patterns on her stolen gown's discarded design notes.
"She told me that once.""
"Of course she did. It was her favorite lesson.""
Nia swallowed.
"Why did she stop designing?""
"Life happened. She married, became a mother, and moved away. She never stopped sketching, though.
She sent me designs every few months. Then, after she became ill, the letters stopped.""
Nia's eyes filled with tears.
"She never told me about you.""
"Perhaps she intended to. Perhaps she thought there would be more time.""
The words settled between them.
Nia looked down at the phoenix sketch.
"Did you make this?""
"No. Elaine did. She showed me an early version many years ago, but she never finished it.""
"She wrote that I could make it my own.""
"Then she trusted you with something precious.""
Nia hesitated.
"Why did you ask about Vanessa?""
Margaret's voice changed.
"Because your stepmother worked for me.""
Nia went still.
"What?""
"Briefly. About twelve years ago. Vanessa was an assistant in our sample room. She was ambitious, intelligent, and very interested in the business side of fashion.""
"She never mentioned that.""
"She wouldn't have had much reason to. Her employment ended badly.""
Nia waited.
Margaret continued carefully.
"I can't discuss everything over the phone. But I will tell you this: your mother left something important in my care. She asked me to protect it until you were old enough to understand what it meant.""
Nia stared at the wall.
"What is it?""
"A portfolio. Original designs, business records, and a document your mother signed. I believe you have a right to see them.""
"Why didn't you send them to me?""
"I tried. Twice. Both packages were returned.""
Nia remembered moving houses after her mother's death, the boxes Vanessa had thrown away, and the years when letters addressed to Elaine had disappeared without explanation.
"Where are you now?"" Nia asked.
"New York. But I have a former colleague in Chicago who is attending your competition. If you qualify for the final showcase, I can arrange for her to meet you.""
Nia's heart began to pound.
"Do you think I can win?""
Margaret gave a short laugh.
"I haven't seen your work yet, so I won't make promises. But your mother believed you had the ability to do something extraordinary.""
Nia looked at the half-finished phoenix gown.
"I want to try.""
"Good. Then listen carefully. Your competition's final submission deadline is Friday at noon.
Send the organizers a written notice that your original garment is being replaced. Keep a copy of everything.""
"I will.""
"And Nia?""
"Yes?""
"Don't let anyone touch your mother's portfolio if it reaches you. Not until we've spoken in person.""
The call ended.
For the next three hours, Nia worked without stopping.
She transformed the smallest fabric scraps into a pattern for the phoenix's layered skirt. She used old curtain lining for the first structural test, pinning each layer onto a dress form she had assembled from a secondhand mannequin and a wooden stand.
The result looked terrible.
One side drooped. The silver organza tangled around the base. The bodice collapsed when she removed the pins.
Nia stared at the mess.
Then she laughed.
"Okay, Mom. I see the problem.""
She took it apart and started again.
At school, she spent lunch in the art room, sketching the gown's construction. Her art teacher, Mrs. Alvarez, found her surrounded by paper patterns and empty snack wrappers.
"Nia, have you been working all night?""
"Most of it.""
Mrs. Alvarez pulled a chair beside her.
"Is this for the couture competition?""
Nia nodded.
"Where's the blue gown you showed me last week?""
"Someone took it.""
The teacher's expression sharpened.
"Who?""
"My stepsister.""
"Does your family know you're entering the competition?""
"They know. They just don't think it's important.""
Mrs. Alvarez looked at the detailed sketch.
"Then they are making a very expensive mistake.""
Nia gave a small, tired smile.
"I don't have enough money to finish it.""
Mrs. Alvarez examined the list of materials.
"How much are you short?""
"About two hundred dollars. Maybe more.""
The teacher stood and walked to the supply cabinet.
"I have some unused fabric from last year's costume project. It isn't couture silk, but it might help you build the structure.""
She pulled out several rolls of dark blue fabric and silver mesh.
Nia stared.
"Are you sure?""
"I'm sure. And I know someone who might have the right kind of thread.""
Mrs. Alvarez placed the materials on the table.
"Talent is not a luxury, Nia. Don't let people who have money convince you otherwise.""
For the first time in days, Nia felt she could breathe.
She carried the fabric home in a canvas bag.
Vanessa was waiting in the kitchen.
On the table sat Nia's school laptop, open to the competition website.
Beside it lay a printed copy of the email Nia had sent to Margaret Bell.
Nia stopped in the doorway.
"Where did you get that?""
Vanessa lifted the paper.
"Your email account was still logged in on the family computer.""
"You went through my messages?""
"Don't change the subject.""
Brianna sat at the counter, scrolling through her phone. She wore the stolen gown over a white T-shirt, the hem dragging across the kitchen floor.
Nia's stomach twisted.
Vanessa tapped the email.
"Who is Margaret Bell, and why are you sending her your mother's designs?""
Nia forced herself to remain calm.
"She's a designer who knew Mom.""
"Your mother knew plenty of people. That doesn't mean you should be contacting strangers and sending them private documents.""
"She isn't a stranger to Mom.""
Vanessa's fingers tightened around the paper.
"What exactly did she tell you?""
"Nothing you need to worry about.""
Vanessa slapped the paper onto the table.
"Everything that happens under my roof is my business.""
Nia looked at the gown on Brianna.
"Then perhaps you should explain why you're wearing my competition entry.""
Brianna glanced down at the dress.
"Oh, this? I'm having it adjusted.""
"You stretched the waist.""
"Well, it was too tight.""
"You weren't supposed to wear it.""
Brianna shrugged.
"You're not wearing it, either.""
Vanessa stepped forward.
"Enough. You will stop contacting Margaret Bell, and you will give me that box from your room.""
Nia's pulse quickened.
"What box?""
"Don't insult my intelligence. I know your mother's things are in there.""
For one terrifying second, Nia thought about the sketches hidden beneath her bed.
Then she remembered the key, the letter, and the promise her mother had made.
"No.""
Vanessa's face went white.
"Excuse me?""
"You heard me.""
Brianna stopped scrolling.
"Mom, she's doing it again.""
Vanessa ignored her.
"You have until tonight to hand over that box. If you refuse, I'll make sure you don't have a competition to attend.""
Nia picked up her bag.
"That's fine.""
Vanessa blinked.
"What did you say?""
Nia met her eyes.
"I'll find another way.""
She walked upstairs before her knees could betray her.
That night, she worked until the first pale light appeared through her window.
By morning, the phoenix gown had taken shape.
The skirt spread around the mannequin in sweeping blue and silver layers. Each panel rose slightly higher than the one beneath it, giving the impression of wings opening.
The bodice still needed work, but the design was finally becoming real.
Nia took a photograph and sent it to Margaret.
The response arrived minutes later.
Elaine would have loved this.
Nia smiled through her exhaustion.
Then another message appeared.
I have one more thing to tell you. Vanessa wasn't simply an assistant in our sample room. She was the last person to handle your mother's original portfolio before it disappeared.
Nia's smile faded.
Before she could reply, someone knocked at the door.
A man's voice called from the hallway.
"Nia Carter? I'm here to collect the sewing machine and all of Elaine Carter's belongings.""
Nia froze.
May you like
She had never heard that voice before.
And when she looked through the crack beneath her bedroom door, she saw Vanessa standing beside a stranger holding a set of removal boxes.